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An exceptional White For Summer or the Cellar

 

Adventures with white wine ...

Sometimes when we play a hunch, it pays off. Big time. Last Monday, I was in the mood for white wine after work, and instead of going to one of my go-to, weekday wines, I spent a bit more than I normally would to taste the 2017 Lugana Superiore from Ca' Lojera. The verdict? Sensational! Will I make this splurge again? Yes I will.

At the southern end of Lake Garda sits the winery in the photo above. They are around a 5-iron away from the lake itself, and if you've ever seen pictures of the lake or of the town of Sirmione, you know how beautiful a place it is. If you haven't, do so at your own risk, as anyone with a modicum of wanderlust will drool over the thought of visiting. Proprietors Ambra and Franco Tiraboschi make their white wines with one grape variety, Turbiana. That's what the locals call it. After recent DNA testing, it has been determined that it is the same variety as Verdicchio. The 2017 Ca' Lojera Lugana Superiore is pure class, and considering the price ($23.99), it's a super value. It's bright and fresh, with aromatic hints of citrus, honeysuckle, and melon. The aromas are precise and persistent. On the palate, it opens up with a medium bodied amalgam of fruit and floral notes, and a steady stream of nervy acidity leading to quite a pleasant, harmonious finish. With the case price ($20.39), it will make you do a double-take. White wines this good normally sell for much more than twenty bucks. There's not a lot of it left in stock, so if you want to try this bit of affordable luxury, we suggest you do so sooner than later.

Funny, I was reading a recent article written by Jancis Robinson, in which she praises Chenin Blanc. She linked the article on Twitter, asking followers what their suggestions for world's most under-appreciated wine grape would be. In the article, she points specifically to Chenin's ability, as white wine, to age well and improve over decades, as a "real sign of quality." In the same vein, one can make a similar argument in favor of Verdicchio, or Turbiana, as it's known around Lake Garda. - Peter Zavialoff

As you can see, the winery and vineyards are very close to Lake Garda.

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